As the dress is in the "Fitting" section of the book, I wanted to make sure I get a proper fit by making a muslin first. Before making my first muslin however, I made my usual Colette pattern changes like SBA and sway back adjustment. Then I made my first muslin and you can see the not at all flattering fit here:
|Are we playing football? Nope.|
|Too much fabric and the front bodice is riding up.|
And then, in a very unconventional (very wrong) way, removed some tissue from the bodice front and back at the seams to get an even line from back to front. I then made up for the shortened seams by adding 1" to get the proper height for my waistline. Then it was time to try out the waistband. Following the tutorial, I made a waistband for the front and back bodice. In theory it is quite easy, you just cut off the desired waistband length and close the darts. Then you add seam allowances to the bodice and waistband, voila!
|The 2nd muslin is still too big (here I pinned the excess out) and riding up.|
I cut out my 2nd muslin and tried to sew on my waistband. Here I met challenge No 1, but managed to pass with loads of swearing and trying and pushing. It fits :) This time, I even stitched a zipper at the back. I had to, because my boyfriend who usually pins my back was not around and I somehow had to close it. This time, the fit looks much better (ignore the awful darts, it is only a muslin) at least when looking from the back and front. There are still a few fitting issues: (1) too much fabric between my apexes ;) I pinned that extra fabric out and altered the pattern. (2) my front bodice is still riding up. Theoretically, I would have to slash the muslin above my bust and drop the fabric until I get an even waistline. BUT, I chose to ignore that. I know, I know, silly me. But whenever I slash and drop the bust, it does not fit on my waistline anymore and creates more problems. Next time, I promise, I will do it properly.
|Cotton poplin from Goldhawk Road and Canterbury. The flowers will be the waistband.|
What are you having on your sewing table at the moment? Are you having any awful fitting issues?