Tuesday 27 October 2015

Bruyere - finally mine!


It took me almost a year from buying this pattern at the last SewBrum to actually get it sewn! I rediscovered my love of shirt dresses when I put my 2013 McCalls makes on (here and here). I had to have another one, or two, or three. Only one so far.


Fabric: Cotton print fabric that I bought from Goldhawk Road this year. I love fabric with flowers on it. I'm always in love with Ruths and Roisins makes and decided to finally make a flower dress for myself. I managed to cut the Bruyere from 1.5 m of fabric - at least I thought so. But discovered that I had missed the back facing, ups. There was no fabric left and so I used some white leftover cotton.


Pattern: Bruyere from Deer and Doe. I cut a size 36 for the bust, a 38 for the waist and a 40 for the hips. It was the first time that I cut a bigger size for the bust. I went to a proper Bra fitting and I can only recommend you go as well if you have the chance! I always bought 32B and the bra that fitted me best was 28/30 D (the shop keeper was raving about my very narrow back). I couldn't believe it.


 Cutting bigger bust sizes might also improve the fit of the clothes on my shoulders which I always struggle to fit right. For the Bruyere, I only did a forward shoulder adjustment and then crossed my fingers. I usually make a muslins, but as shirt dresses are not as snug I usually can get away with not fitting them. I also lengthened the shirt dress to size 46 because I'm not planning to wear it over trousers.


Constructions: As others have already commented, this pattern is for the advanced seamstress. There is not much detail and I was actually surprised by the lack of it. One of the challenging parts for me was to put in the sleeves. There seemed to be a lot of ease and I was wondering if they have to be gathered. But according to the internet I was the only one struggling. I unpicked the sleeves several times and managed to get them in with a minimal amount of puckers. Did anybody else experience problems with this step? Or was it just my lack of skill ;) Oh, I'm also not showing the plackets. Thankfully my fabric is patterned...


Fit: Not perfect yet. When wearing the shirt to work today I noticed the bust darts riding up which caused the build up of a fold over the bust. I'm not exactly sure why that is but I might try to move the bust dart down a bit because I thinks it is a bit high. For my next version I will also reduce the ease in the sleeves as they are a bit puffy. Other than that. I love it!


I had some trouble to style the dress. For the blog photos I was wearing it with purple tights. But tights are see through and so I didn't feel safe - especially because the fabric kept clinging to my bum and then riding up - any tips? Also what type/color of shoes would you combine with purple tights? I've worn the Bruyere with black leggings and a purple camisole today which felt much better.

Not my favorite photo, but the only one that shows the proportion of the shirt dress a bit better.
Lastly, thanks so much for your comments regarding my pink stripy dress last week. They are most welcome and I will review them coming spring. For now, the dress has been put to the back of the wardrobe and will be ignored :) PS: My sewing mojo seems to be back following a trip to Amsterdam - pictures to come -  and I'm merely sewing and embroidering. There is also some house hunting in the mix, but so far no success. Do you really need a sewing room? YES!

18 comments:

  1. I love it:) It looks great in a floral print. I'm off to Amsterdam (for work, but I will have a little free time) this Sunday so am looking forward to seeing your photos. x

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    1. I'm trying to get the photos up before Sunday then! I didn't take much and went only into 2 stores because I was limited to 2 fabric purchases - very difficult!

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  2. I was wondering if the bust might be riding up because it needs an FBA? I'm just learning about fitting, too, and that helped me with the same problem. Of course, I'm very busty. I love your version of this pattern! It looks beautiful on you.

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    1. Thank you. I don't think a full bust is the problem because I have worn the blouse with a push-up and a normal bra and still had the problem. Good luck with your fitting! It will be so rewarding if you make clothes that fit you :)

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  3. oh my! gorgeous floral print in such pretty colours, perfect buttons too ;o)

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    1. Luckily nobody noticed so far that two of these buttons were not buttoned up. Don't know how that could happen!!!

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  4. Really lovely fabric choice - it suits you. I think that blues go well with plums.

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    1. I've was actually wearing the blouse with blue ankle boots on the day because I thought red and blue should go well with purple. But so far, I think black looks best!

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  5. LOL, Yes you do need a sewing room. Right now, I'm dreaming about a renovation for my home around the need for a devoted sewing room and I'm spending more time researching sewing rooms on Pinterest than on kitchens and bathrooms. It's terrrible!

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    1. But it is much more fun to research a sewing room than a bathroom, hihi. So far, I'm only looking at the size of the rooms and they are too tiny for my stuff. lol

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  6. I'm glad to have provided you with floral inspiration! Your Bruyere is really pretty and suits you really nicely. I think I'd definitely want to wear it with leggings not tights, I'd be too worried about the tights being see through! And I've got a pair of purple tights that I wear with brown shoes or boots - but I'm never quite convinced that it's the right combination!

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    1. I'm also very glad, Ruth :) You are also inspiring me to make a cropped sweater to go with my dresses - next on my list! I've also tried brown boots with purple tights, but was also not fully convinced. I have some rose ballerinas which go well with purple tights but are too cold in winter, buh.

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  7. What a beautiful top! I love the fabric. From the pictures I can't see any mistakes or fitting problems. It just looks like perfection to me!

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  8. It's perfect, Daniela! The cut is very exquisite and the flower pattern makes it look spring like and fresh. Happy holidays, by the way!!!
    Sincerely,
    Di Bridge

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