Colette Pastille - difficult birth but (almost) done

Finally, I am (almost) done with the Pastille Dress from the Colette Sewing Handbook. In total it took me 2 weeks starting with pattern tracing, muslin 1 and 2, and the final version. At times I actually was not sure if I would finish this dress and just kept going for the sake of it.

May I introduce my Pastille Dress:

Summer time...

Pattern: Colette Pastille. The original pattern comes without the waistband. There are 3 pleats on the hem and the dress has little cap sleeves. Closure is a centered back zipper.

Constructions: I almost gave up at several points, because I got stuck and didn't know what to do. My main issue, which was completely self-made, was that the side seams of bodice/waistband and skirt don't match.

Seams of waist and skirt don't match.

Fortunately it is not that obvious (when you not sew yourself). I couldn't figure out what the problem is. But luckily, Charlie from thisblogisnotforyou pointed out after my last post, that I had reduced the center seam (muslin No2) of the bodice. Apparently, I must have applied these changes to the waistband but not to the skirt. That explains perfectly well why my bodice seams are closer to the center. (I still think, I pattern walked on the tissue to make sure the patterns have the same length.)

My waistband came out weirdly shaped - ah, it's a design feature :)

Also the shape of the waistband is a bit odd. So, all the way, I was asking myself: Why did you have to make a waistband? Wouldn't a simple belt be enough? And because of the waistband I had short fat darts, which were very difficult to press. I tried to re-sew several times to make the point a bit sharper, but then they were too long.

Neckline with a satin ribbon.

The neckline was also really scary, as it got its right shape only after I had stitched the facing on. Before there were millions of drag lines (there are still a few).

Mr Zipper and I were also no friends. The pattern called for a centred zipper and as it was 3 years ago, that I had sewn one, I gave it another go. I had my sewing book next to me, but somehow the descriptions were not very detailed and I ended up with an ugly very visible zipper. I know it is not an invisible zipper, but still. After having a chat with Charlie, we decided that I could try to push some fabric over the zipper with the iron. I then tacked the fabric by hand, so that the zipper was hidden underneath. Then I stitched around the zipper to secure the fabric. Not perfect, but at least it is not screaming anymore at you when looking at my back. Too late (now) I realised, I actually have a free Craftsy Class for mastering zipper techniques, ah.

Being done with the zipper, I discovered that there were massive fabric folds on the skirt back radiating from the waist to my bum. These were there because of my sway back! I had made a sway back adjustment to the bodice but not to the skirt :( I managed to make them less visible by making the darts on the skirt a bit bigger. Now, I had the problem I couldn't step into my dress anymore, but luckily I was reminded that I can pull the dress over my head as well :) Should have been obvious, shouldn't it?

Details...

Also very depressing was, that my boyfriend told me that my waist and main fabric do not fit together and that polka dots don't suit that style of dress, bummer. He made that comment after I failed to sew in the zipper. So very motivating when you are down already, grrrr.
 
Will I make it again? I don't think so. At least not with the waistband. At the moment I am just fed up with this dress.

Have I worn it yet? No, because I still have to line the skirt - that's why the heading says almost :) I have underlined the bodice and wanted to make a lining for the skirt. I really have to, because the skirt was clinging to me like crazy when we went out to take the pics. So, I hope I get my spirits up soon to do it.

Do I like it? I think I start to. I love the fabrics and the little pink bow. The style and colours are so me. And if I wear it with a cardigan, you will not see the zipper :)